Sunday, March 14, 2010

service dogs training

Minimum Standards for
Training Service Dogs

These are intended to be minimum standards for all assistance dog programs that are members or provisional members with ADI. All programs are encouraged to work at levels above the minimums.

  1. The service dog must respond to commands (basic obedience and skilled tasks) from the client 90% of the time on the first ask in all public and home environments.
  2. The service dog should demonstrate basic obedience skills by responding to voice and/or hand signals for sitting, staying in place, lying down, walking in a controlled position near the client and coming to the client when called.
  3. The service dog must meet all of the standards as laid out in the minimum standards for Assistance Dogs in Public and should be equally well behaved in the home.
  4. The service dog must be trained to perform at least 3 tasks to mitigate the client's disability
  5. The client must be provided with enough instruction to be able to meet the ADI Minimum Standards for Assistance Dogs in Public. The client must be able to demonstrate:
    • That their dog can perform at least 3 tasks.
    • Knowledge of acceptable training techniques.
    • An understanding of canine care and health.
    • The ability to maintain training, problem solve, and continue to train/add new skills (as required) with their service dog.
    • Knowledge of local access laws and appropriate public behavior.
  6. The assistance dog program must document monthly follow ups with clients for the first 6 months following placement. Personal contact will be done by qualified staff or program volunteer within 12 months of graduation and annually thereafter.
  7. Identification of the service dog will be accomplished with the laminated ID card with a photo(s) and names of the dog and partner. In public the dog must wear a cape, harness, backpack, or other similar piece of equipment or clothing with a logo that is clear and easy to read and identifiable as assistance dogs.
  8. The program staff must demonstrate knowledge of the client's disabilities in relation to the services they provide. The program shall make available to staff and volunteers educational material on different disabilities.
  9. The client must abide by the ADI Minimum Standards of Assistance Dog Partners.
  10. Prior to placement every service dog must meet the ADI Standards and Ethics Regarding Dogs, be spayed/neutered and have current vaccination certificates as determined by their veterinarian and applicable laws. It is the program's responsibility to inform the client of any special health or maintenance care requirements for each dog.

dog training aggression

Aggression in dogs is a very serious behavior problem and should be dealt with right from the start. Common signs of dog aggression include growling, baring teeth, snarling, snapping and biting.

What most people do not understand is that while this kind of behavior is unacceptable to humans, it is quite natural for dogs to be aggressive. Where dogs are concerned, there is always a good reason for aggressive behavior, the only problem is that their owners fail to acknowledge it.

Dog aggression can be reduced or even prevented as long as you, the owner, are willing to understand the factors that influence your dog's behavior. A good rule is to treat any signs of aggression as they surface, rather than deal with aggression when it has become an issue. It is always easier that way. It is also easier when you understand how important your role is and how your own behavior may contribute to the development of aggression problems in your dog.

Types of Dog Aggression

There are several types of dog aggression: Defensive or fear-based aggression, dominance aggression, possessive and territorial aggression, intra-sexual (male-to-male or female-to-female) or parental. A dog may show more than one type of aggression.

  • Dominance aggression. Your dog may think that she is the alpha dog. There are dogs that have a greater predisposition for asserting themselves as predators. Male dogs and certain breeds have a greater tendency toward asserting their dominance over their territory, other dogs and people. The solution for this kind of dog is to get control quickly and establish your leadership through training.

  • Fear-based aggression. Dogs that are physically abused will build fear of that person and may react with defensive aggression one day. A fear-based aggressive dog will usually display submissive body language but may snap if cornered and will often bite at people who turn and walk away.

  • There are at least two normal causes of aggressive behavior and even biting. One is maternal protection of pups by the mom, and another is sibling rivalry. Here, the best advice is to properly socialize your dog at a very early age, to people as well as to other dogs. Sometimes, hormonal medication will effectively treat the aggression in these dogs.

  • Territorial and Possessive aggression. A dog may be territorially aggressive over certain objects such as her bed, her home and her food bowl. Establishing your leadership and counter-conditioning this dog are essential. It is important to begin this training at a very early age.

What You Can Do When Your Dog Is Aggressive

When trying to deal with your dog's aggressive behavior, one of the first steps is to make sure there are no medical problems you are not aware of. There is a chance that a health problem is responsible for your dog's aggressive behavior. So, check with your veterinarian before you rule this one out.

Whatever you do, take precautions. Keeping everyone safe is your main concern. Since you are responsible for your dog's behavior, it would be a good idea to confine her, leash her or restrict your dog’s activities until you have found a way to deal with the problem. If you feel that you can not control your dog or if you're afraid that your dog may bite someone then it's better that she wears a muzzle. Remember, these are only temporary measures until you can get professional dog training help.

If you can identify the situations that cause most of your dog's aggressive behavior then you should avoid them at least for the time being. Exposing your dog to situations where she is more likely to show aggression will work against you.

You can spay or neuter your dog. Hormones are known to contribute to aggressive tendencies in intact dogs so it's more likely for them to show some kind of aggressive behavior.

Aggressive Dog Treatment

Get professional help. An aggression problem will not go away by itself. Treatment is best handled by a professional dog trainer who has a lot of experience working with aggressive dogs. You wouldn't want to hire any dog trainer who is poorly qualified or anyone who uses excessive force and punishment in order to correct an aggressive dog.

Punishment won’t help, in fact, it will make the problem worse. In most cases, the use of punishment will either challenge your dog's dominant position or make her more fearful, and therefore more aggressive. It will help escalate the aggressive behavior and is more likely to result in a bite or a severe attack.

Most aggressive dogs can be retrained under the right circumstances. However, before you start a program to correct an aggressive dog, you must realize that there is a chance your dog may never be trustworthy around other people or children and may bite if provoked. Consult veterinarians or animal behaviorists for their opinions about whether your dog can be rehabilitated or should be put down.

dog obedience training

It was the last straw. I came home to find my wife sobbing her eyes out on the couch. There were her new black pumps, chewed beyond help or even recognition. Not only that there was also a big pile of dog poop on the floor of the living room right next to the shoes. That was it. No matter what the girls wanted, I had had enough of that dog.

Choco had been long wanted and wished for by my family of daughters. They begged me over and over again for a dog but since I hadn’t really had a dog since I was a kid myself and I didn’t have much experience with dogs I begged off, at least for a while. But then one day my oldest daughter came home and said that her friends chocolate lab had had a litter of puppies and we could have one if we wanted. My wife and I talked about it and we told her we might consider it.

A few weeks later, we went over to see the puppies and Choco just seemed to connect with each of my daughters and even my wife and I. All of the puppies were cute like puppies are but Choco was special. I knew and the family knew. I knew that she would be joining our family. The girls named her Chocolate Sauce but we started calling her Choco for short.

Soon, though we starting realizing the problems that come with an untrained puppy, everything from accidents in the house, to chewing, unnecessary barking at friends and neighbors and even nipping at my youngest daughter and my daughter’s friends. I didn’t have a clue on how to train a puppy and my wife didn’t either, the girls were too young to know exactly what to do and when they tried, it just made matters worse because girls have a tendency to squeal and all that did was scare Choco.

So I looked into some training. To get into an obedience class in my area, I found out that it would cost $90.00 for the weekend and we would be in a class with at least 12 other dogs. That seemed expensive and I wasn’t sure that I felt comfortable enough that I would even be able to learn myself, let alone train Choco.

But the day of the shoe incident, I knew it was over. I either had to figure out how to train this little mongrel of a puppy or we would have to get rid of him. So I started searching the Internet. There were a large variety of different products, some sounded good and others sounded confusing. But I found a dog obedience training course and it made sense to me. I especially liked the fact that there was a sample video that I could check out. I tried the techniques suggested on the video that night and it was amazing! Choco responded right away and I was so thrilled.

So I ordered the complete course, 7 videos about everything I needed to have so that Choco could remain the much beloved and treasured member of my family that she had already become.

Training Choco turned out to be easy when I had some decent instructions on what exactly to do. She responded immediately to the training methods that I learned about in the videos and we all enjoyed working with her and training her to be the kind of dog that our family needed.

Now Choco is a joy. She is well-behaved, sweet and lovable and she has become exactly the type of dog that we all dreamed of having when we picked her out of that cute little litter. And my girls are

thrilledthat worked for us and I can wholeheartedly and completely recommend it to anyone who is having trouble with their dogh

paper training puppy

Be consistent in your training. When you use one method stick to it. Consistency will be rewarded. Try to maintain a strict schedule regarding:

  • What you feed your dog
  • When you feed her
  • When you give her water
  • When you take her out for a walk

Stick to quality, dry food. It makes his digestion and stool's consistent. A good quality, dry food also exercises his jaws and helps to keep his teeth clean. What you feed your dog will affect:

  • How solid her stools are
  • How often she potties
  • How much control she will have over his urge

Eating table scraps can really mess up your dog's stools (as well as giving him health problems) and therefore wreak havoc on your housebreaking plans. Decent quality, dry dog food is you and your dog's biggest ally... table scraps are not.

When a puppy, your dog will require 3 or 4 feedings and waterings a day. When 6 months and older begin to cut his feedings down to a couple of times a day, but continue to give him water 3 or 4 times a day. The last watering should be no later than a couple of hours before bedtime.

The feeding and drinking time shouldn't last over 15 minutes. She'll soon learn not to dawdle over her food bowl.

Try to feed your dog in a nice, quiet spot and don't interrupt him during his 15 minute feeding and watering time. The last feeding should be as early as possible (around 5 or 6) so that he will eliminate on the last walk and will not have to go overnight.

When you bring your dog home, section off a small area for her living space. Start out covering her entire confined area with absorbent paper.

Your mission is to gradually make her paper area smaller and smaller until you are left with a very small potty area. And then you will probably want to move her potty area exclusively to the great outdoors.

Keep her potty papers in one location. Do not put them throughout the house. She should have her one, defined, potty area in her sight at all times.

Try to change any dirty paper ASAP. You want her to be clean at all times, which will make her prefer it to being dirty.

Clean thoroughly the areas where she uses the potty with ammonia free cleanser. A simple solution of vinegar diluted with water is a good neutralizer. You can put some in a spray bottle for convenience. She will continue to use the potty where she smells even faint traces of her own waste. And a dog's urine contains ammonia. You can also use this to your advantage... Put some of her soiled papers exactly where you want her to go.

When you take your dog outside to potty, stay with him. Take him exactly where you want him to go using his collar and leash. You can also take his soiled paper with you and put it in the area where you would like for him to go. Give him around 15 minutes to do his business. If he doesn't go, then bring him back in. If he shows signs of having to go, then take him back outside.

Praise your dog when he potties on the designated papers or area. Don't go overboard in your praise though. In the wild, his mother would not. Whenever you catch your dog going in the wrong place - grab him and take him to his papers or designated area immediately, while saying "Bad Dog."

After a walk and business done, then he can get 15 - 20 minutes of play time and then back to his living area.

If you discover an accident after the fact, take your dog over to the area and let her get a good whiff. Say "Bad Dog" and then take her to the designated potty area.

Don't ever shove his nose in the mess or hit him. This does no good at all. His mother wouldn't do it. She would correct him with her voice, or shove him with her muzzle or body.

Make sure that all other sources of water are eliminated during training so that you will have control over when and therefore where she urinates. Possible sources where she might sneak a drink of water: toilets, flowerpots, puddles, etc.

Patience is very important. Remember that if you stick with it, your dog will sooner or later be housebroken.

Points to remember:

Tough love is sometimes necessary. Remember, you are the leader and your tough love will pay off in the long run.

A dog's sense of smell is thousands of times keener than our's, so believing that an odor is gone by using your own sense of smell is useless. Always use an ammonia free cleanser.

His small living space should be near the action of the house so he doesn't get too lonely.

Your puppy won't have very good control of his stools and urine until after 3 months of age, so he will need more frequent walks.

Keeping your puppy confined to his personal area or him being where you can keep a constant eye on him are essential to house-breaking. It does more good to catch him in the act of an accident and stopping him than correcting him after the fact.

While you're away, leave him in his personal confined space with his potty papers. Make sure that he has something to chew on, as this will keep him occupied. You might also want to leave the radio or television on, as dogs are social animals and crave company.

Observe closely your dog's habits. See how long after eating he relieves himself. Get a good average. This will help you in planning a schedule for his walks.

When the paper training is over, clean the area thoroughly with ammonia free cleanser so that he doesn't continue to use that area.

You can take some of his soiled paper outside while training to get him to go in a specific area.

Take your dog out first thing in the morning. He should go within about 20 minutes, if not bring him in and watch him. Take him out when he displays the urge to go.

Puppy training bells

After you have housetrained your puppy dog, you might find it useful to train your puppy to ring a bell when he wants to go out to potty. Believe it or not, this is not a difficult trick to train if you follow these instructions. Your puppy will only ring the bell when he or she genuinely needs to go to the toilet.

This is not a behaviour you want on cue (command). Ideally, you want your dog to learn that ringing the bell gets them let outside when they need to go to the toilet and at no other time.

At first you need to shape the bell ring that you want. This is done by presenting the bell in front of pup's nose and clicking & treating when she touches the bells, even if by accident (it is assumed that the reader knows a little about clicker training here and can shape a target behavior). If pup isn't interested, put the bell behind your back, wait a few seconds, then present the bell again. When pup has a really, really good idea that you want her to touch the bells, then you stop clicking & treating the quieter rings, and only click & treat the louder rings (this is known as selective reinforcement).

Then you start doing this when you know pup needs to go to the toilet. Present the bells at the back door, click, then open the back door (no treat). Put the bells away until next time pup needs to go to the toilet.

After a while pup will figure out "hey, every time I ring the bell I get let out to potty!" When pup is anticipating ringing some bells before you let her out (demonstrated by looking at you, or looking at bells when not presented), it's time to start leaving the bells hung up on the door.

You should have a pretty good idea of when pup will need to go to the toilet. So if you hear the bells rung at that time, race over and open the door. If you hear bells ring at other times, ignore it. Don't let this trick work for pup unless you're at least 80% sure it's because she needs to go to the toilet.

This is a trick best left for pups who are already 95% toilet trained, but if pup isn't already toilet trained go right ahead and teach pup how to ring the bells, then wait until pup is toilet trained before continuing.

Some dogs will find bell ringing intrinsically reinforcing, regardless of what happens after the bells are rung. This sort of dog cannot easily be taught to ring a bell only when needing to toilet.

Remember, no cues! Don't prompt with your hands or give verbal hints of what you want pup to do. It will only add confusion and you'll probably find that pup starts looking for them. Still bodies, quiet mouths. Use your clicker to communicate

Saturday, March 13, 2010

K9 Dog supplements

K9 Super Fuel all natural muscle building formula
Animal Naturals K9 Super Fuel is the number one selling canine body building supplement of all times! It is the most advanced muscle performance enhancing formula in history. K9 Super Fuel improves quality of life for all dogs. K9 Super Fuel can increase lean muscle mass in your canine athlete, working dog, agility dog, police dog or hunting dog. Super Fuel is great for your family dog or rehabilitating dog too. Dog healthy Super Fuel, for Xtreme K9 Power and Performance
K9 Puppy Gold
Animal Naturals K9 Puppy Gold contains canine milk's bioactive proteins, micellar casein, colostrum, glucosamine and more to give a giant head start in life. Puppy Gold even included the immune system enhancing lactoferrin. K9 Puppy Gold will not only help produce healthy puppies, but healthier, longer living adults. Great for pregnant soon to be mothers too! Puppy Gold for Xtreme K9 puppy performance.
Animal Naturals Joint Strong hip and joint dog supplement
Animal Naturals Joint Strong is the first all natural joint supplement that "puts out the fire" associated with joint inflammation caused by injury, canine arthritis, age and other joint related issues. Perfect for aging dogs, performance dogs and k9 athletes. Use as a daily maintenance supplement to keep joint healthy and help prevent injuries.
K9 Show Stopper
Animal Naturals K9 Show Stopper produces the WOW FACTOR! Gorgeous coat, solid physique, rock solid joints, and boundless energy are so striking it literally stops the show. Show Stopper reduces shedding, flaking and hot spots and builds strong joints. Enhance canine health and canine performance. K9 Show Stopper , for Xtreme K9 skin and coat!
Young at Heart for Senior dogs
Animal Naturals Young at Heart for senior dogs. Young at Heart uses new "life extension" advances to enhance your senior canine's mental health, eye health, skin and coat. Young at Heart reduces joint inflamation and joint pain. Young at Heart is a dog healthy supplement for senior canines that brings out the best in your aging companion. Young at Heart, Xtreme K9 performance for senior dogs.
Dinovite Skin and Coat Supplement
Dinovite is the best selling dog supplement in the country! A healthy dog does not itch, scratch, shed, stink or keep you up all night licking their paws. They rarely need creams, lotions, ointments, antibiotics, or steroid shots! They also eat well. Dinovite provides all the enzymes and nutrients your dog needs to resist parasites and bad bacteria. Dinovite for Xtreme K9 health and vitality.

Puppy training games

Games that constitute jumping, chasing or running after the ball, the dog exercises his movements, as well as developing their capacity of reaction and faculty of three-dimensional perception.

The firm rubber balls are the most appropriate ones to throw and let them roll. The way to play and the techniques vary depending on the hunting dogs: the ball gets thrown at the dog or rolled at the opposite direction in different velocities; you let the ball bounce off the dogs sight range or over some irregularity in the terrain (raise his incentive by keeping the ball under control) and you can combine it with the orders of fetch and bring it. Start with short tosses. Never throw the ball directly at the dog, cause it can hurt him as he tries to grab it.

Struggle with big Balls, light ones filled with air get the dogs enthusiastic: toss the ball at mid height at the dog, which should jump up and hit at it with his muzzle returning it to you. Careful with a hard floor: many dogs will fall and hurt themselves badly, just trying to hit ball.

Important: use balls filled up with air only for training, because the dog can bite them and swallow them (danger of suffocation). The Game of Passing the Ball, Running at it and Playing Football (with their paws or muzzles)

Make the delights to any dog, especially if the main player is his owner. Don't allow the dog in his excitement to bite at shoes or pants, if so break the rhythm of the game, block the ball or finish the game with .

In games of running: between several people (maximum 3, because more people only confuse the dog) you can send the dog from one person to another, always chasing the tossed ball. With each change of position you have to let him play with the ball for a little while or motivate him with a candy.

Note: never deceive a dog intentionally, not even playing. For example, acting as throwing the ball but making it disappears behind your back.

puppy leash training

    Introducing the Leash

  1. Chewing on His Leash
    A few days after your puppy arrives at his new home (and experiences his collar for the first time) comes the introduction of the leash. A fairly long lightweight leash is ideal. Just clip the lead to your pup's collar but do not hold the end. Instead, allow your puppy to check out this new device by sniffing it, playing with it and dragging it around. Be sure you are supervising your puppy during this time. Leave the leash attached for a couple of minutes at a time two to three times a day, gradually increasing the time with each session. It will not take long for your puppy to realize that the leash is not to be feared.
  2. Holding the Leash

  3. On a Leash
    After spending about two weeks acclimating your puppy to his collar and lead, you are ready to hold the leash while he is attached. You need to show your puppy that the leash represents a connection between you and him, one that you are in charge of. Basically, you need to establish yourself as alpha dog.

    Attach the leash to your puppy's collar and stand in one spot with your puppy moving around you, allowing him to tug on the leash and then loosen it. When your pup pulls on the leash, ignore him. Do not tug back. When your pup stops pulling and comes close to you, praise him enthusiastically. With excited praise, show your puppy that this is not a scary experience and that a loose lead is what pleases you. Do this for only a short time (maybe three minutes) two to three times a day for a couple of days.
  4. Controlling the Leash

  5. Mission Accomplished
    When your pup understands the leash's meaning, you are ready to start walking.
    Start by taking a couple of steps forward. As you do this, say your chosen command, such as "heel." If your pup moves with you, praise her. Then stop walking. Here, your puppy will likely become excited again and try to continue trotting forward. Do not follow her, yank on the lead, yell or do anything else to excite her. Instead, merely stand in your spot until she returns to your side. You must remain extremely tranquil during this process so that your manner rubs off on your puppy. When she finally sits beside you, pat her to show that you are pleased, then, saying your command, take a few more steps forward. Allow your puppy to trot along beside you but immediately stop walking when she starts to tug on the lead. When she relaxes, always offer her quiet praise. When you are able to take a few steps without any tugging, stop and reward your pup.

    Start with five-minute training sessions in an enclosed environment. Gradually increase the length of the session. At the same time, demand that she walk longer distances correctly before giving her a treat. After several private sessions, your pup will be ready to walk contentedly on a loose leash in public.

Litter training puppies

Tips for Litter Training Your Puppy:

  • Introduce the puppy to the litter box slowly. Gradually introducing your puppy to new experiences is always best, and litter training is no exception. Allow the dog to stiff out the area, touch it with his paws and mouth and show him where he is supposed to go potty.
  • Make feeding time the same everyday. All day feedings may be easier on the dog’s owner, but the puppy should be able to know when to expect his food and he should be allowed to eat for roughly 20 minutes. If done consistently, this will help you time his potty habits, making it easier for you to litter train the dog.
  • Set up the puppy litter box in a comfortable spot. Puppy litter can be used much like kitty litter to train your puppy to go potty indoors. It reduces the smell, gives the dog a secure place to go potty without being disturbed and allows him to have a spot where he knows he can go without getting in trouble.
  • Keep a close watch on the puppy. When the puppy is out of his cage, he needs to be monitored closely so you can catch him when he is about to go potty and direct him to his litter box. Left unattended, the puppy will have more accidents and make the process more difficult.
  • Offer praise and reward the puppy for using the litter box. Much like kids, dogs so well with positive reinforcement. Tell him what a good dog he is when he goes potty in the litter box. Give him a treat and rub his belly when he goes to the litter box to go potty without being guided there.
  • Keep the litter box clean. The puppy will be more likely to use the litter training box if it is kept clean and fresh.

Benefits of using a dog litter training system:

Though puppies have been trained to go potty outside successfully, it is not always an option. For people with small breed dogs who live in apartments or don’t have a designated area for the dog to go potty outside, a littler box is the perfect solution. A dog little box allows then to enjoy their pet while cutting down on accidents and the smells that go along with them.

Guard dog house training

  1. Step 1

    Socialize your puppy. Familiarize him with the environment. Get him used to traffic, people and other animals. Teach him to remain indifferent to other animals. This means do not allow him to chase after cats or pursue a female dog in heat.

  2. Step 2

    Teach basic obedience. Demand the dog's attention at the start of every training session. Teach the dog verbal commands; such as come, sit and stay. Teach these same commands using hand signals. You should also teach your dog automatic commands, such as to always sit when they come to you.

  3. Step 3

    Encourage your dog to bark when someone approaches the house. Most dogs will do this automatically unless you teach them not to. When someone approaches the house and your dog barks, tell her she is a good girl and that she can stop now because you are here and the person is a friend. If the person is not a friend, allow the dog to continue barking and praise her for her response. It is important to train the dog to stop barking only when given the command to do so.

  4. Step 4

    Train your dog not to run after the intruder once they leave your property. To do this, you will have to make sure that the dog knows where your property line ends. Walk the dog around the perimeter of the property until she understand the boundaries.

  5. Step 5

    Instruct the dog to attack clothing not exposed flesh. You can do this by pulling your hand into your sleeve and telling the dog to "get it." Don't use words such as "kill" or "sic." When you're done, tell the dog to "drop it." Remove the dog's mouth from your arm if he does not release and expose your hand from your sleeve.

  6. Step 6

    Identify the areas on an intruders body that your dog should bite. You want the dog to bite an extremity, preferably a leg and then hold onto the person until help arrives. In the last step, your dog should have learned the command to drop or release. A good guard dog will not release the intruder until either its owner or a policeman gives them the command to do so.

The Lhasa Apso dog info

The Lhasa Apso Dog is the favorite breed of the monasteries in Tibet. It has been raised there, for over 2000 years.

Height, weight: around 25 cm. Between 3 and 4 kg.

Fur, color: gold, bluish, gray, black and brown, sometimes mixed.

Appropriate for: people who live in apartments and don't mind brushing the dog.Not Appropriate for: clean freaks and who resists dedicating a lot of care in the hair.

As a member of the family: happy, pleasant and intelligent, very devoted to the owner. Is untrusting towards strangers. Is ideal for families that live in an apartment.

Breed's character: vigorous, very friendly and decided. Bold, intelligent and lively

Common sicknesses: not likely.

Life expectancy: up to 14 years or more.http://www.dogsindepth.com/nonsporting_dog_breeds/images/lhasa_apso_h03.jpg

The Chow-chow dog info

Looks like a lion. The Chow-chow is proud and reserved, and walks a little funny (as if it's carrying stilts).
Height, weight: its minimum height is 45,5 cm; weighs 20 to 32 kg. Has a very compact body.
Fur, color: abundant, thick and straight, with soft under hair. Has a marked collar. a black monochrome, red, blue, brown, cream color or plain black.
Appropriate for: for those who look for capricious dogs, and are able to handle them.
Not Appropriate for: those who want complete and utter obedience.
As a member of the family: attentive guardian; but very quiet. It doesn't need to move around a lot. Is not recommendable for children.
Breed's character: capricious, to the point of being right out stubborn. A one man/woman dog. It's almost impossible to train it. No interest in flattering or cajoling. It is one of the most individualist dogs and is very self-assured and proud. Is combative and brave. Sensitive to heat. It originally comes from China and was used for hunting, as a shooting dog, a guardian or even a sheep dog. It was first introduced in Europe in 1887 and it didn't take long for it to be on fashion.

Common sicknesses: prone to eczemas. Frequent blinking of the rook of its eye.

Life expectancy: up to 14 years.http://mypetcare.files.wordpress.com/2009/01/chow-chow.jpg

The Doberman dog info

The Doberman is powerful and muscular, runs very fast and is a incorruptible guardian.

Height, weight: up to 72 cm; and 45 kg. Very elegant aspect

Fur, color: short, hard and dense. Black, dark brown or blue with rusty red, perfectly outlined fire.

Appropriate for: people who enjoy sports or who seek a good guard dog.

Not Appropriate for: people who don't like sports, have fast reactions, or want to be taken guarded.
As a member of the family: if included when young will be very caring with the family and children.

Breed's character: moody, brave, firm, naturally strong. The skin tension on the face doesn't let you guess it's mood. Psychologically sensitive. Actually is a one man's dog. Bred in the XIX century by Louis Doberman as a defense dog.

Common sicknesses: hair loss

Life expectancy: up to 14 yearshttp://www.greatdogsite.com/admin/uploaded_files/1190779415doberman_pinscher.jpg

The German Dogo dog info

The German Dogo is a giant dog with a large face. Qualified by its breeders as the "Apollo of dogs".

Height, weight: minimum height in males is 80 m; minimum weight is from 46 to 54 kg, generally 85 kg and more. Well proportioned body. Impressive aspect because of it's size and head.

Fur, color: short, dense, straight and brilliant. Five chromatic classes: white, tiger stripes, black and white spots, and black and blue.
Appropriate for: understanding people with a lot of space.

Not Appropriate for: beginners and people with rooms full of furniture.

As a member of the family: adorable, not noisy. Easygoing and sensitive, a friend of children. Used in the middle ages as a "bull fighter" and hunting dog. Although it has always been a famed dog, you shouldn't get it only for prestige reasons. Large food intake.

Common sicknesses: stomach torsion for eating too fast and furious; heart valve failure.

Life expectancy: up to 10 years.http://www.dogfacts.org/german-dogo-dog-pictures.jpg

Cocker Spaniel info

A Cocker Spaniel is a hunting dog that is strong and hardly ever gets tired. Its become a dog companion. There are various breeds of the Spaniel.

Height, weight: up to 41 cm high; weighs from 12,4 to 14,5 kg. Has a condensed body.

Fur, color: adhered and silky, not curly. Hair locks but that are not too fluffy. Black or red, black with darker spots, black and white, orange and white, black and white with dark yellow, brown, orange, brown with dark yellow and somewhat blue.
Appropriate for: people who look for sensitive and loving dogs, who have time enough for the caring of its hair and to give long walks.

Not Appropriate for: those who confuse the authority with strictness.

As a member of the family: an excellent domestic dog. Not a good guardian. Salivates with any excitation. Barks more outside than at home.

Breed's character: from playful and very happy, too affectionate, fond and sensitive. Definitively a big eater

Common sicknesses: otitis, has a tendency to obesity. And in the summer, dry spikes may introduce into its skin, causing it to get infections

Life expectancy: 16 years or more.Cocker Spaniel - Dog Pictures

golden retreiver dog info

The Golden Retrieveris

TheGolden Retrieveris one of the most beautiful

retrievers, for its outstanding golden color. From a hunting dog, it came to be a common house dog.

Height, weight: up to 62 cm; and up to 34 kg. Symmetric constitution, distance runner.

Fur, color: straight over coating with thick and waterproof under hair. All tones of gold and cream.
Appropriate for: families that have the time to take care of it and can take long walks with it.

Not Appropriate for: small houses or people that live close to the woods.

As a member of the family: devoted, balanced, not aggressive. Sociable with other domestic animals. Insensitive to wind and storms. Good guard, but never noisy.

Breed's character: kind, kid-friendly and easy to handle. Learns happily and well. Great swimmer. Very resistant it's a good hunting dog with a good sense of smell. Very appreciated companion. Bred in the half of the XIX century through the "yellow" side of the Flat Coated Retriever and Water Spaniel.

Common sicknesses: cataracts in old age.

Life expectancy: up to 14 yearshttp://www.i-love-dogs.com/dog-breeds/images/Golden-Retriever.jpg

Dog training tricks

Dog training

Foreword

This is a page for novice dog owners who want to teach their dogs to perform tricks, etc. I wrote this page because I got several requests for some suggestions from people who had read my WWW-page 'Belgian Games' but didn't know how to proceed in teaching their dogs to do those tricks.

Please note that there are as many different training methods in the world as their are handlers (or dogs). This is fine, because each dog is an individual, and you can't teach them all by using the same methods. Also note that I am no professional trainer: I just do this for fun. The methods I have described here have worked for the dogs that I have worked with, but there haven't been that many of them. Anyway, I am a strong believer in the 'soft' method of dog training, and I believe that it is important that both you and your dog are having fun when you are doing this. These instructions focus on training a dog to perform tricks mainly for fun, but in principle you can use the same basic ideas for training a dog for obedience competition etc.

Philosophy

Dogs learn awfully fast if they are motivated, i.e. if they really want to learn. In order to teach your dog to perform some tricks, it's a good idea to choose a trick that you at least think your dog might enjoy doing. This often means that if your dog has never carried anything in his mouth, you should not start by trying to teach him to retrieve or carry things. It will be possible to teach almost any dog to retrieve, but maybe you should start with something easier or completely different, like 'shake hands', play hide and seek, etc.

In order to learn the desired trick, the dog needs to know when he is doing the right things. If you toss a tennis ball from your hand and say 'retrieve!', many dogs run after the ball as desired, but it's unfair to excpect the dog to know that you want the ball brought back to you, unless you can clearly 'tell' him that. In order to 'tell' him when he is doing right, you should praise him the exact moment when he is starting to do the right thing. For example, when the dog grabs the tennis ball into his mouth and takes a step towards you, you say 'good boy!!'. If he drops the ball or runs away from you, you give the command again. And again, when he takes even one step towards you, you praise him. This way the dog gradually realizes what you want him to do, and when he has realized that, you can also demand more.

Use the kind of reward that your dog appreciates. Some dogs love treats, some dogs don't care about food that much but may prefer to play with their favourite toy for a while as a reward. However, always use your voice as a reward: use your happiest voice to tell your dog how smart and good he is when he is doing the right thing. This way you will not have to use treats/toys every time you train your dog -- he will soon understand that the vocal praise (and sometimes pats and hugs) mean that he has done what was expected of him.

I always prefer using much more praise than 'NO!s'. In the beginning it's unnecessary to tell your dog that he has not done what you expected of him, if you are consistent in praising him when he does the right thing. Besides, teaching tricks should be fun for both of you, and I can't imagine either of you enjoying very much if you end up screaming 'NO!' all the time. Of course there are some exceptions -- If your dog starts to chase a rabbit in the middle of your training session, you naturally shout 'NO!' to him and get him back.

If the trick is relatively complicated (like teaching your dog to bring his own toys into a box, or similar) you have to split the trick into several substeps that you teach one at a time and then try to combine them. For example, if you try to teach the fore mentioned trick, first teach your dog to carry his toy, then to put it into a box, then to find the toy and bring it into the box, and then to do this with all of his toys. It is very important that you realize when a trick is too complicated to learn in only one step. It's better to proceed too slowly than too fast.

Don't practise too much at any one time; practise often (you can practise as often as 1-3 times a day if you wish) but only for short times. The dog learns best when you quit each session when he still would like to go on -- this way he will be motivated to continue the next time. If your dog seems to be bored by the trick, take a break from training, or teach him something else that he might enjoy more.

Preparation

Decide what you would like to teach. Start with simpler tricks (shake hands, dance, retrieve something, etc.) and proceed to more difficult ones if your dog learns fast. It's a good idea to start with only one trick at a time, but later you can work on a few different new tricks parallel, if you wish.

When you have decided what you want your dog to learn, think of a command to use for that particular trick. The command can be anything you wish, as long as you will be consistent with the use (eg. not use the same command for something else) and as long as the command doesn't too much resemble some other command that your dog already knows. It's usually a good idea to choose relatively short words. Unlike some other people, I prefer using nouns as commands instead of verbs, because there are always more nouns to choose from, and also because it's often much more confusing to use verbs. For example, you can teach your dog to retrieve a thrown object by using the command 'retrieve', but if you want him to bring you a desired object that you have hidden (or lost), there's no point in saying 'retrieve ball!', 'retrieve keys!', when simply 'ball!' or 'keys!' would be enough.

Some tricks

Here are some examples of tricks to teach to your dog, and my suggestions for how to proceed. Once your dog will have learnt some/all of these, you probably have an idea how to proceed with other tricks from the 'Belgian Games' list.

Sit and shake hands

This is one of the easiest tricks to teach to a dog. First you must teach your dog to sit on command. Probably the easiest way to teach a dog to sit on command is to have a treat (dog biscuit, piece of cheese, etc.) on your hand, lift it up above the dog's nose and say 'sit!'. If the dog is standing and tries to grab the treat, don't let him get it, but repeat the same maneuver again. When he sits, immediately give him the treat and praise him. Repeat the trick a few times.

Another way to teach a dog to sit on command is very simple but takes a little more time: each time you see that your dog is going to sit, tell him to 'sit!' and praise him when he does that (+ give a treat). It doesn't take very many repetitions for the dog to realize what the command is for, but this still takes longer than the above mentioned method.

Some poeple suggest you to teach a dog to sit on command by pressing his butt on the ground while saying 'sit!'. I suggest you first try the other two methods though, just to see how easy it is to teach a dog even without using force. Later, once he has clearly understood the meaning of the command 'sit!' you can use this method if he doesn't obey you. Try to be gentle though, there's no point in causing the dog pain when teaching him tricks.

Once your dog has learned to sit on command, you can proceed to 'shaking hands'. Give him the command ('say hello!' or whatever), and gently hold his paw with your hand and give him a treat with another hand. Repeat this a couple of times -- most dogs learn this very fast, if your timing (the command + the praise and treat) is right.

Dance

This trick is easiest to teach to a dog that jumps against people. The advantage of teaching this trick is that once the dog 'dances' on command, he doesn't put as much weight (maybe none at all) on people as when jumping against them, thus it is a very good replacement behaviour for a dog who jumps too easily.

When the dog is excited and jumping around you, tell him to 'dance!' and gently hold his front legs and lift them up so that he stands on his hind legs. Then praise him and give him a treat and gently put him back on the ground.

Once he knows how to do this, you can see if he can do it without your help. Small dogs seem to be able to balance themselves better than large dogs -- with my Belgian Sheepdog I just hold his front paws and we dance together, because he doesn't seem to be able to stand up on his hind legs very well without help.

Find/retrieve something

This is easiest to teach if your dog already enjoys carrying things in his mouth, but you can also try to teach a dog to bring his toys to you even if he doesn't like to retrieve a ball/stick thrown by you. It would be easiest to teach this trick if your dog already can sit on command and stays that way until you give him the permission to go -- this way you can hide a toy etc. while he sits and waits.

Bring your dog's toy a few steps away from where he is sitting, so that he can see it, and ask him to find it. (Here you can use the command 'find!', or the name of the toy, or just 'toy!' etc. for any object that you hide and want him to bring to you). Once he goes to the toy, praise him immediately, even if he doesn't touch it. Repeat this each time he is close to the toy and thus try to encourage him to take it into his mouth. The first time he takes the toy into his mouth, praise him and give him a treat, and give him back the toy and play with him for a while. (This is important, otherwise he will think that you always take the toy away from him and thus he won't want to bring it to you).

When he has learned to take the desired object into his mouth, try to make your dog bring it all the way to you. First praise him when he comes running with his toy in his mouth, then praise him only when he brings it to your hand (you can trade the toy for a treat). When he has learnt all this, you can start hiding the toy to more difficult places (in another room, or behind a tree on a walk, etc..).

There are two versions of the advanced object search game, and it's possible to teach your dog both versions if you wish. In the first version you hide an object (toy or whatever) somewhere outside (where there are not many other objects to be found), and your dog doesn't need to know what the object is. You just tell him to 'find!' or look for a 'toy!', and he is supposed to bring to you any object that he can find with some human smell on it. This can be really useful if you e.g. drop your glove, car keys, etc. (Practice a lot with various objects, but start with some easy ones, like his favourite toys.) In the other version of the game the dog has to know the name of the desired object and bring it to you, so you must teach him one object at a time (for example, 'ball', 'kong', 'bone', etc.). You can play this game in your house, and the better your dog can distinguish the various objects by their names, the more you can try to confuse him by also hiding some other objects.

dog training devices

Dog Training Devices

Dog training devices are available for pet owners who may find themselves in situations that require moving beyond basic dog training aids. With large, rambunctious dogs, rescued dogs with specific behavior problems, or field dogs that need to learn advanced skills in large areas, you may want to consider the use of various dog training devices.

Electronic dog training devices

One of the most controversial dog training devices is the electronic collar. This device lets the trainer give the dog small electric shocks via a remote control. Although the idea of shocking your dog may be, well, shocking, the electric shock will actually hurt your dog less than a slap on the muzzle or a yank on a choke collar, two things you might be more willing to do.

A benefit of the electronic collar is that it allows a trainer to correct the dog at a great distance. This comes in really handy if you're training field dogs. But without some training yourself on how to use the collar, it's easy to misuse. If you think your dog might be too tender for this type of correction, you can also find electronic collars that make noise only.

A variation on the electronic collar is the bark collar. The bark collar automatically emits a shock whenever your dog barks. If you want to add this item to your collection of dog training devices, then be sure to buy a programmable version. It will let you set a delay time before the shock, so your dog will learn it's okay to bark at an intruder, but not okay to bark all night for the fun of it.

And interesting twist to dog training devices is a new type of collar that emits both noise and a quick spray of citronella mist. It also functions with a remote control and provides immediate negative feedback for your dog without resorting to electric shock.

Invisible fences

Underground hidden fences are another of the very popular dog training aids. Invisible fences consist of buried antenna wire that marks the perimeter of an area you want "enclosed." Your dog wears a special collar that emits an audible alarm as he approaches the boundary, and administers an electric shock if he gets too close.

Dog training devices like the invisible fence are popular because they can be used in neighborhoods that don't allow fences. They give the illusion of freedom and openness. But these popular dog training devices have disadvantages as well. Passers-by and delivery workers may be frightened by your charging pet, because they don't see a fence. Some dogs have a high pain threshold and may be willing to ignore the shock if the distraction is strong enough. And if pet owners don't maintain the system, it may fall into disrepair.

There are also indoor versions of these dog training devices. Pet training mats have been developed that emit an electric shock whenever your pet steps on it. The idea is that it teaches your dog to stay off furniture, counters, or out of certain areas of the house.

High technology dog training devices are very appealing because they offer "quicker and better" solutions to the age-old problems of dog training and correction. In the long run, however, your most effective dog training "devices" are going to be patience and consistency.

doberman puppy house training

Doberman Pinscher Puppy Training Basics

When training a Doberman puppy, it’s important to understand what your training efforts are essentially working toward. What training does is teaches a dog how to get what it needs and wants in an acceptable way.

Behaviors such as jumping up, play-biting, and barking are all natural behaviors a young Doberman puppy will use to get what it instinctively needs. Through training, the puppy will learn better ways of getting these instinctive needs in the family setting, and will be a much happier Doberman puppy as a result.

It’s also important to understand that a Doberman puppy is very different from an adolescent or adult Doberman. A Doberman puppy less than six-months of age is in a development stage. Many of the behaviors it displays such as growling, biting, and rough play are not signs of aggression, but simple behaviors that help develop the necessary mental and physical abilities it would need for survival in nature. These behaviors are healthy, but should be molded by the puppy’s family to be display in an acceptable way, just as the mother would mold them in the wild.

Dobermans, and all dogs, are a result of what their owners make of them. Dobermans do not simply become aggressive nor do behavioral problems simply appear. Such problems are a result of the dog’s experiences and it is the Doberman owner’s responsibility to control these experiences and provide training in order to raise a healthy and happy Doberman.

Crate(Kennel)Training

Providing a Safe Doberman Puppy Den


The use of a crate (kennel) is an effective way to train a new Doberman Puppy. The kennel imitates a den. In nature, puppies stay in a small den, just big enough for everyone to fit. While the adult pack members are off on the hunt, the puppies stay behind, safe in the den usually with an adult puppy-sitter. Only when the pack returns will the puppies emerge to happily feed on regurgitated food.

Doberman Puppy Behaviors

It’s important to teach any large breed puppy to never jump-up or put its paws on people. Often new Doberman puppy owners and others around the Doberman puppy find this jumping-up adorable, and not only fail to correct the behavior but inadvertently award it by returning the affection. A small eight-week-old Doberman is adorable when jumping up, however, as the puppy grows this friendly behavior become dangerous.

Play-Biting

Doberman Puppy Behaviors

Doberman puppies are very mouthy and love rough play, which includes gentle biting and grabbing. To develop their little bodies and minds, Doberman puppies wrestle with their litter mates, barking, growling, and dragging each other around. Puppies will transfer this behavior to their new families. The problem here is that Doberman puppies grow strong faster than they realize, have brand new sharp teeth, and tend to get carried away. House Training, House Breaking, Potty Training

What Does the Puppy Recognize as His Den?

There are a few things the Doberman Puppy owner must understand before attempting to house training a Doberman puppy. The first thing to understand is that when a puppy owner finds a mess the only thing he can do is punish him self. Bringing the puppy back to the mess and scolding him will only do harm and can actually cause more messes by inducing stress. Remember, the puppy is only a few weeks old. He doesn’t have any idea how that mess got there! Give him a break for crying out loud – how smart were you at 12 weeks of age? ;-) Continue....

Basic Obedience Commands

What All Dobermans should Learn

Every dog, especially large and intimidating dogs like the Doberman Pinscher, should learn basic obedience. Basic obedience comprises certain commands including the commands: “ No, Leave-It, Wait, Release "OK", Come, Sit, Down, Stay, and No-Bark.” A Doberman responsive to all these commands will be much more controllable by his owner. This control will result in a much happier Doberman who will have a much richer life interacting with the family and positively representing the Doberman breed outside the home.

Training a Doberman to Walk on Lead

Maintaining the Heal Position

The common way people walk their dogs has the dog out in front, sometimes pulling the person along. This may seem fun for the dog and is better than no walk at all, but in reality such a practice is unfair to the dog.

Other Doberman Puppy Problems

Behavioral Problems Common to the Doberman Puppy

All puppies develop bad habits. It’s the puppy owner’s responsibility to stop or redirect these behaviors. However, most of the worst puppy habits are the fault of an uneducated puppy owner. Remember, puppy behavior is a reaction to experiences.

There are a few common behavioral problems in Doberman puppies. A common problem is chewing on and destroying things. Other problems include swallowing odd items, digging, messy drinking, rough play in the house, demanding play, and aggressive barking.

Some of these problems have an easy solution or are easily preventable. Others are just part of puppy-hood. And some, like messy drinking, are things that some Dobermans just do and their owners need to just deal with.

Friday, March 12, 2010

Advanced dog training

Your dog should obey any command that you give him within two or three seconds, if he does not obey you then he is either ignoring you, which means that your position as alpha leader is under threat, or he doesn't understand the command and requires further training.

If he responds to your command in some situations and not others then it's likely that he's just ignoring you. To prevent this from happening use the “No-Command” method. This method has three steps.

  • Use something to alarm your dog, such as a squirt from a water pistol or shaking a pebble filled can. Make sure you do this while he is in the act of misbehaving or ignoring you.

  • At the same time say a loud “No!” or “Bad”. Use a stern voice so your dog recognizes the difference in tone from your normal voice. It's important the voice correction is sincere and delivery is consistent so your dog associates the harsh word with stopping their immediate behavior.

  • Redirect your dog with the command.

Remember that when you give a command it's helpful for you to be in a position to make sure your dog physically does what is asked and are able to to take the corrective action immediately.

Sit and stay command

The Sit and Stay command is an important command to learn.

The Sit and Stay command increases your dogs self discipline and prevents distractions from sidetracking him, such as other cats and dogs.

Once you have him sitting steadily, gradually increase the time you require him to stay sitting. Stand next to your dog all the while, but don't make him wait too long or he'll become fidgety. When he'll comfortably sit at your side and not attempt to move, go on to the next stage.

  • Place your dog on the leash and place him in the Sit position with you standing at his right shoulder. You'll both be facing the same direction.

  • Give the command “Stay” and step one step away to the right while still holding the leash. If your dog attempts to get up or follow you, gently push him back into the Sit position. It may be useful to use a flat open hand (with your left hand) as a signal to enforce the command.

  • Hold this position for 4-5 seconds before moving back to your dog’s side. At this stage, don't let him get up or move from the Sit position for another few seconds. Then release him with the “Okay” command and praise him.

Stage 2

This final step ensures that he'll learn to maintain his position and prevent him from attempting to greet you when you move towards him.

Once he's used to and correctly completes Stage I, then progress further by stepping forwards rather than to the side.

  • Make sure that you are holding the leash.

  • Give a clear instruction of “Stay” before you move forward.

  • Normal heeling involves you starting off with your left leg. This is your dog's key to follow. For the Sit Stay command, you need to leash off with the right leg. This can be a difficult progression for your dog to learn as he may assume that you want him to heel so it's important for you to use the correct leg movement consistently.

When he has mastered this stage you can try using these variations.

Stage 3

In this stage you'll increase the distance you move away from your dog until eventually you move far enough that you can leave the leash on the ground.

You can also gradually increase the length of time that you get him to stay with the end target being four or five minutes.

If at any time he does not respond properly to your Stay command then move back a stage in the progression until he re-masters it fully. If he's not responding well to extended Stays then you might wish to try placing a stake in the ground and putting the free end of the leash over it. Command your dog to sit by the stake with you by his side. Give the command to Stay and then walk away. If your dog breaks and tries to come towards you then chastise him immediately and restart the exercise. Eventually you should be able to remove the stake.

Shake paws

Most dogs can learn this command easily.

  • Place your dog in the Sit position.

  • Use the command “Shake” at the same time as grasping your dogs paw.

  • Repeat the command while shaking your dog’s paw.

  • Release him with “Okay” and then praise him.

It shouldn't take long for your dog to volunteer his paw to you when you say "shake."

Jump through your arms

Chances are that your dog will love doing this command. Jumping is when you get your dog to jump through your arms when you have formed them into a circular shape. For a dachshund you'll obviously want to keep your arms low to the round.

  • Put a low barrier across a doorway or gateway so that your dog has to jump over it to reach the other side. I've found an adjustable shower rod in a doorway works great.

  • Make him Sit and Wait for you on one side of the barrier. Call him to you from the opposite side of the barrier. As your dog is about to take off over the barrier say the command “Jump”.

  • Praise him when he successfully jumps the barrier.

When he has successfully completed this maneuver ten to fifteen times, move on to the next stage.

Stage 2

For this part, you'll need someone else to help out.

  • Kneel beside the barrier with your arms formed into a large arc, but without your hands touching.

  • Your willing assistant calls the dog to come and jump over the barrier and your lower arm at the same time. Remember: say “Jump” when the dog takes off.

  • With each jump, slowly close in your arms together so that they eventually form a completed circle.

  • Remove the barrier and complete a few more jumps.

You may need to use food as an incentive for this exercise, if you do use treats, as soon as your dog starts responding to your Jump command, decrease the treats and increase verbal praises and hugs. Complete the entire procedure twice per day for five or six days.

crate training a puppy

What is Crate Training?

Crate training can be an efficient and effective way to house train a dog. Dogs do not like to soil their resting/sleeping quarters if given adequate opportunity to eliminate elsewhere. Temporarily confining your dog to a small area strongly inhibits the tendency to urinate and defecate. However, there is still a far more important aspect of crate training.

If your dog does not eliminate while she is confined, then she will need to eliminate when she is released, i.e., she eliminates when you are present to reward and praise her.

Be sure to understand the difference between temporarily confining your dog to a crate and long term confinement when you are not home. The major purpose of confinement when your are not home is to restrict mistakes to a small protected area. The purpose of crate training is quite the opposite.

Short term confinement to a crate is intended to inhibit your dog from eliminating when confined, so that she will want to eliminate when released from confinement and taken to an appropriate area. Crate training also helps teach your dog to have bladder and bowel control. Instead of going whenever she feels like it, she learns to hold it and go at convenient scheduled times.

Crate training should not be abused, otherwise the problem will get drastically worse. The crate is not intended as a place to lock up the dog and forget her for extended periods of time. If your dog soils her crate because you left her there too long, the house training process will be set back several weeks, if not months.

Your dog should only be confined to a crate when you are at home. Except at night, give your dog an opportunity to relieve herself every hour. Each time you let her out, put her on leash and immediately take her outside. Once outside, give her about three to five minutes to produce.

If she does not eliminate within the allotted time period, simply return her to her crate. If she does perform, then immediately reward her with praise, food treats, affection, play, an extended walk and permission to run around and play in your house for a couple of hours. For young pups, after 45 minutes to an hour, take her to her toilet area again. Never give your dog free run of your home unless you know without a doubt that her bowels and bladder are empty.

During this crate training procedure, keep a diary of when your dog eliminates. If you have her on a regular feeding schedule, she should soon adopt a corresponding elimination schedule. Once you know what time of day she usually needs to eliminate, you can begin taking her out only at those times instead of every hour. After she has eliminated, she can have free, but supervised, run of your house.

About one hour before she needs to eliminate (as calculated by your diary) put her in her crate. This will prevent her from going earlier than you had planned. With your consistency and abundance of rewards and praise for eliminating outside, she will become more reliable about holding it until you take her out. Then the amount of time you confine her before her scheduled outing can be reduced, then eliminated.

Mistakes and Accidents During Training

If you ever find an accident in the house, just clean it up. Do not punish your dog. All this means is that you have given her unsupervised access to your house too soon. Until she can be trusted, don't give her unsupervised free run of your house. If mistakes and accidents occur, it is best to go back to the crate training. You need to more accurately predict when your dog needs to eliminate and she needs more time to develop bladder and bowel control.

chihuahua puppy house training

1. Gentle Behavior Training.

If you want a gentle and well balanced chihuahua when it grows up you must treat your puppy with gentle training. Negative behavior must be dealt with in a consistent and kind manner, not by slapping, hitting and kicking. Positive behavior must consistently be rewarded both with praise and with treats.

A dog's behavior may be modified at any time during it's life. But it's much easier to guide the dog into correct behavior patterns as a small puppy, rather than having to fix problems. It's unfair both to the animal and the owner to let problems go unaddressed. Behavior problems will lead to frustration for both dog and owner.

2. House Training Your Chihuahua Puppy.

House training your chihuahua puppy is very important. It isn't just that soiling the house is such a mess, which it is. If the puppy is not house trained fairly quickly, the dog ends up at another home or at least outside. It's easy to see why proper house training is so important.

One method of training your puppy is the crate method. Confine your puppy in a crate or a small area. Puppies usually will not soil their sleeping area. Very frequently remove the puppy to an area for waste elimination. When the puppy does have an accident, you can quickly rush them to the appropriate area. But, remember, accidents will happen and do be patient and consistent.

3. Biting, Mouthing, And Chewing.

All chihuahua puppies will bite and chew on body parts and clothes. That's just what puppies do. But early on, this painful and destructive behavior must be stopped. Adult dogs who bite and chew are a serious problem.

If the puppy has a chance to play with other puppies, the playing will naturally teach restraint in biting. Without the interaction with other dogs, you must deal with the behavior yourself. One approach is to say "ouch" , which should be easy to do, in response to puppy bites. You can use a pained expression in your voice, but not loud or angry. Then try leaving the room for a short time.

4. Barking And Whining.

Is there a real reason for the barking or whining? Are they uncomfortable? Can you find out why? There may be a good reason. Or is this blackmail? Your puppy must be taught to handle isolation and separation. They must not expect to get everything they want.

Spend plenty of time with your puppy so they feel loved and secure. But do not accept excessive noise that is irritating to the human members of the household.

5. Socialization Tips.

A properly socialized puppy is well adjusted and will be a pleasant and valuable companion. Socialization most easily occurs before the puppy is 3 months old. Make sure early experiences are not frightening nor painful. Try some of the following.

Invite friends to meet your puppy.

Invite other pets where that's possible.

Carry your puppy to places where there are crowds of people.

Take your puppy for short car rides.

Acquaint your puppy with being bathed, brushed and inspected.

Introduce your puppy to anything and everything you wish them to be around.

canine puppy house training

Establish a routine

Like babies, puppies do best on a regular schedule. The schedule teaches him that there are times to eat, times to play, and times to potty.

Generally speaking, a puppy can control his bladder one hour for every month of age. So if you're puppy is two months old, he can hold it for about two hours. Don't go longer than this between bathroom breaks or he's guaranteed to have an accident. If you work outside the home, this means you'll have to hire a dog walker to give your puppy his breaks.

Take your puppy outside frequently—at least every two hours—and immediately after he wakes up, during and after playing, and after eating or drinking.

Pick a bathroom spot outside, and always take your puppy to that spot using a leash. While your puppy is eliminating, use a word or phrase, like "go potty," that you can eventually use before he eliminates to remind him what to do. Take him out for a longer walk or some playtime only after he has eliminated.

Reward your puppy every time he eliminates outdoors. Praise him or give him a treat—but remember to do so immediately after he's finished eliminating, not after he comes back inside the house. This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for eliminating outdoors is the only way he'll know what's expected of him. Before rewarding him, be sure he's finished eliminating. Puppies are easily distracted. If you praise him too soon, he may forget to finish until he's back in the house.

Put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule. Do What goes into a puppy on a schedule comes out of a puppy on a schedule. Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed three or four times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make it more likely that he'll eliminate at consistent times as well, and that makes housetraining easier for both of you.

Pick up your puppy's water dish about two and a half hours before bedtime to reduce the likelihood that he'll need to potty during the night. Most puppies can sleep for approximately seven hours without having to eliminate.
If your puppy does wake you up in the night, don't make a big deal of it; otherwise, he will think it is time to play and won't want to go back to sleep. Turn on as few lights as possible, don't talk to or play with your puppy, take him out to do his business, and return him to his bed.

Supervise

Don't give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house; keep an eye on him whenever he's indoors.

Tether your puppy to you or a nearby piece of furniture with a six-foot leash if you are not actively training or playing with him. Watch for signs your puppy needs to eliminate. Some signs are obvious, such as barking or scratching at the door, squatting, restlessness, sniffing around, or circling. When you see these signs, immediately grab the leash and take him outside to his bathroom spot. If he eliminates, praise him lavishly and reward him with a treat.

Keep your puppy on leash in the yard. During the housetraining process, your yard should be treated like any other room in your house. Give your puppy some freedom in the house and yard only after he is reliably housetrained.

Confinement

When you're unable to watch your puppy at all times, he should be confined to an area small enough that he won't want to eliminate there. The space should be just big enough for him to comfortably stand, lie down, and turn around in. You can use a portion of a bathroom or laundry room blocked off with baby gates.

Or you may want to crate train your puppy and use the crate to confine him. (Be sure to learn how to use a crate humanely as a method of confinement.) If your puppy has spent several hours in confinement, you'll need to take him directly to his bathroom spot as soon as you let him out, and praise him when he eliminates.

Oops!

Expect your puppy to have a few accidents in the house—it's a normal part of housetraining. Here's what to do when that happens:

  • Interrupt your puppy when you catch him in the act of eliminating in the house.
  • Make a startling noise (be careful not to scare him) or say "OUTSIDE!" Immediately take him to his bathroom spot, praise him, and give him a treat if he finishes eliminating there.
  • Don't punish your puppy for eliminating in the house. If you find a soiled area, it's too late to administer a correction. Just clean it up. Rubbing your puppy's nose in it, taking him to the spot and scolding him, or any other punishment will only make him afraid of you or afraid to eliminate in your presence. In fact, punishment will often do more harm than good.
  • Clean the soiled area thoroughly. Puppies are highly motivated to continue soiling in areas that smell like urine or feces. Check with your veterinarian or pet store for products designed specifically to clean areas soiled by pets.

It's extremely important that you use the supervision and confinement procedures outlined above to minimize the number of accidents. If you allow your puppy to eliminate frequently in the house, he'll get confused about where he's supposed to eliminate, which will prolong the housetraining process.

When you're away

A puppy under six months of age cannot be expected to control his bladder for more than a few hours at a time (approximately one hour for each month of age). If you have to be away from home more than four or five hours a day, this may not be the best time for you to get a puppy; instead, you may want to consider an older dog, who can wait for your return.

If you already have a puppy and must be away for long periods of time, you'll need to:

  • Arrange for someone, such as a responsible neighbor or a professional pet sitter, to take him outside to eliminate.
  • Train him to eliminate in a specific place indoors. Be aware, however, that doing so can prolong the process of housetraining. Teaching your puppy to eliminate on newspaper may create a life-long surface preference, meaning that even as an adult he may eliminate on any newspaper lying around the living room.

Paper training

When your puppy must be left alone for long periods of time, confine him to an area with enough room for a sleeping space, a playing space, and a separate place to eliminate.

  • In the designated elimination area, use either newspapers (cover the area with several layers of newspaper) or a sod box. To make a sod box, place sod in a container such as a child's small, plastic swimming pool. You can also find dog litter products at a pet supply store.
  • If you clean up an accident in the house, put the soiled rags or paper towels in the designated elimination area. The smell will help your puppy recognize the area as the place where he is supposed to eliminate.

boxer puppy house training

  1. Step 1

    Begin training your boxer as soon as you bring him home. Boxers, especially puppies, are very active and without training, they may play too roughly with small children or jump on adults. Your boxer puppy will benefit from a puppy kindergarten where you and he will work together to master the basic commands of sit, stay, down, heel and come. Older boxers can continue advance their training with obedience classes or instruction in the AKC, "Canine Good Citizen" program (see Resources).

  2. Step 2

    Socialize your boxer with other dogs. According to the "Howell Book of Dogs," adult boxers can develop aggression towards dogs they do not know if they are not heavily socialized as puppies and young dogs. Walk your dog in a dog park where he regularly encounters other dogs.

  3. Step 3

    Teach your boxer to respect cats. With their fun loving desire to chase, an adult boxer may chase or harm a cat if he is not used to its presence. Consider raising a boxer puppy with a cat or expose him frequently to cats as he grows.

  4. Step 4

    Exercise your boxer frequently. This breed has a lot of energy and will benefit from frequent walks or from being allowed to run freely. Avoid strenuous exercise during the hottest part of a summer day, since boxers are prone to developing breathing problems as a result of their short muzzle. In addition, boxers are well suited to agility training and are regularly seen winning agility competitions (see Resources).

  5. Step 5

    Select a slip-type collar for your boxer pup when you're training him. This can be a choke chain or a nylon slip collar that will exert pressure on his neck if he pulls on the leash. At other times, allow him to wear a plain buckle-type collar. Remove the slip collar from your boxer pup immediately after training.

beagle puppy house training

  1. Step 1

    Purchase a medium to large-sized crate before you bring your new beagle home (when full grown, your beagle will weigh anywhere from 15 to 30 pounds). It's important to keep your puppy in the crate when nobody is at home. This will prevent your pup from finding a "potty place" in your house. After all, beagles are very inquisitive creatures who love to roam.

  2. Step 2

    Choose a place outside your house that will serve as the spot for your pup to relieve itself. Always go to this spot when taking your beagle pup out. Beagles are very smart animals and will remember the spot you have chosen after only a few times.

  3. Step 3

    Choose a command that you will use when it's time for your beagle to go to the bathroom. This command should be spoken firmly, but gently. Consistency is key, as beagles tend to be stubborn. As a result, you must be persistent and patient, especially when giving commands.

  4. Step 4

    Always take your puppy outside in the morning, immediately after a meal and before bed time. These are the common times for any dog to go to the bathroom. If you keep the times consistent, your beagle pup will eventually learn when it's time to go.

  5. Step 5

    Reward your beagle with praise and a small treat when it uses the bathroom in the correct spot. Beagles respond well to positive reinforcement and are more likely to continue good behavior when rewarded. Contrarily, they do not respond well to harsh actions.

  6. Step 6

    Take the beagle pup back inside and put it in its crate if it doesn't go to the bathroom. Wait for five to 10 minutes and take it outside again.

  7. Step 7

    After approximately three months, most beagle puppies learn to scratch at the door when they need to relieve themselves. Take them out as soon as they begin doing this.

  8. Step 8

    If your beagle relieves itself inside your home, scold it with a stern "Bad puppy." Only do this if you catch it in the act and it didn't go to the door first. Remember, beagles learn best from positive reinforcement, not harsh punishment.

puppy bite training

First off, do not allow biting during play. When you're playing with them, if they bite, immediatley stop playing, say "no bite" firmly, then cut off all attention for a couple of minutes, this means no talking to them, touching them, and cut off eye contact. Eventually, with this method, they will learn that biting is not acceptable. Some people would recommend redirection (replacing your hand, etc... with a toy or something they are allowed to chew on, and praising them when they chew on it), but I have personally found that this method takes more time. Find a method that works for you, and stick with it.

As for them biting and jumping at you when you come in the door. Walk into the house calmly, giving them no attention until they are calm and quite. If they bite at you, firmly tell them "no bite" and ignore them until they calm down. If need be, push them away with your foot. If they jump at you, push them back down with a firm "no" and again ignore them until they are calm.

AKC dog training

You need to provide more information - AKC championship what? In addition to conformation, AKC competitions include tracking, obedience, rally, agility - what competition are you seeking?

That said, to enter an AKC event, your dog must be AKC registered (AKC is now opening obedience, rally and agility to mixed breeds). Before you can enter, you should enroll your dog in the appropriate classes to learn how to train your dog for whatever event you plan to enter. You can find local clubs by visiting AKC's web site. Once you're in a class, you can talk to the trainer about finding local trials.

differences between AKC Agility & NADAC Agility

There are HUGE differences between AKC Agility & NADAC Agility. AKC Agility has ALL the equipment. NADAC has NO table, NO teeter, NO chute, NO spread jumps, usually NO tire (the only type tire they allow is extremely difficult to impossible to find for clubs to purchase for use). The NADAC AFrame is only 5' at the apex. AKC AFrame is 5'6". The NADAC DogWalk & AFrame have no slats. AKC DogWalk & AFrame require slats. NADAC is also now using a rubberized material on the surface of their contacts (not sure if it is 100% required yet). There is also a HUGE difference in course design between the AKC & NADAC. NADAC courses are all designed by just a few individuals within the organization & all their judges must pick from these courses to use when they judge. So much less variety in course design. NADAC has more wide open courses that encourage & often require distance handling. AKC courses are designed by each individual judge per guidelines set for each competition level & must be approved for use by an AKC Agility Representative. So much more variety in course design. AKC courses are more handler intensive. Lots of twists & turns & sequences that require a variety of handling skills. Standard course times & yards per second are also quite different for the 2 organizations. NADAC times are much tighter than AKC.
All the rules & requirements for the 2 organizations can be found on their websites.
NADAC Agility: http://www.nadac.com/rules.htm
AKC Agility: http://www.akc.org/pdfs/rulebooks/REAGIL…